A journey through Bengal's churches

Bengal has always been a melting pot of people, cultures and religions. Even before the arrival of the British, the Armenians, Portuguese, Dutch and several other merchant communities set up their trading posts in different parts of Bengal. As each community settled down here, they also set up their own places of worship. Thus, several century-old churches are strewn across various parts of Bengal.

The tall twin towers of the Portuguese Church at the corner of Brabourne Road, crowned with hollow domes, are a striking part of Kolkata’s skyscape. Officially known as the Cathedral of the Most Holy Rosary, this church serves as the cathedral for Roman Catholics in Kolkata. The ornate interiors of the church, which dates back to 1799, consist of long corridors and arches lit up by dappled sunlight streaming in through stained glass windows. Statues of saints and one of Mother Mary with infant Jesus find pride of place. Mother Mary’s statue is usually wrapped in a bright-coloured sari donated by devotees and changed every few days. 

Timings: Open in the morning hours. Best time to visit is after mass on Sundays, around 9am.
Entry: Free
Photography: Allowed

Completed in 1847, St. Paul’s Cathedral remains the foremost Protestant cathedral in Kolkata. The clock tower of the Gothic-styled church was once topped with an elegant spire, which was severely damaged during the earthquake of 1934 and subsequently removed. Inside, beautiful memorials and murals offer a feast for the eyes. The main cathedral hall is spacious, with beautifully carved wooden pews and chairs. The eastern wall is adorned with exquisite, colourful floral designs, while the western wall is taken up by stained glass windows. The cathedral, located next to Birla Planetarium and opposite the Maidan, is surrounded by a vast expanse of green that is home to several ancient trees.

Timings: Monday to Saturday: 9am–noon and 3pm–6pm. 
                Sundays: 7.30am–6pm 
Entry: Rs 10 
Photography: Allowed

The first Greek Orthodox Church of the city can be traced back to 1781 (some sources put the date at 1752) though its exact location is not known. The present Greek Orthodox Church in Kolkata was built in 1925 and stands next to the Kalighat Tram Depot. Officially known as the Transfiguration of the Saviour Church, it resembles a Greek palace of winds. The church has marble floors and wooden pews. The polished-wood altar has painted panels. 

Timings: No fixed timings 
Photography: Not allowed 

Kestopur, on the eastern fringes of Kolkata, may seem the most unlikely place for a church. But unknown to many, the locality houses a significant Christian population and even has neighbourhoods with names such as Christianpara and Mission Bazaar. Built in 1829, the Emanuel Church is considered one of the oldest churches of Kestopur. Sadly, the old building has been replaced with a new one, its spires soaring high. Here, Christmas is celebrated in a grand way. The highlight is an auction of freshly harvested paddy and other grains. Fresh fruits, fish and even live poultry are also sold. The auction is held on a Sunday about two weeks ahead of Christmas. Christmas Day witnesses a unique celebration with kirtan-style music and dance. 

Timings: No fixed timings
Photography: Allowed 

Founded in 1599, the Basilica of the Holy Rosary is one of the oldest Christian churches in undivided Bengal. The old church was destroyed when Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan attacked Bandel in 1632 and crushed the Portuguese. Father Joan De Cruz, a priest, was taken prisoner to Agra. There he was thrown in front of an elephant, which instead of trampling him, lifted him by the trunk and placed him on its back. Impressed by the miracle, the Emperor not only set the priest and his followers free but also gave them tax-free land for the construction of a new church. Today, all that remains of the old church is a keystone bearing the date 1599 on one of the gates. The way to the present church is through an arched gateway on the banks of the Hooghly. The archway is crowned with a statue of Mary, with baby Jesus, on a boat. Devotees light candles in front of Our Lady of the Happy Voyage. The stairs to the top balcony offer spectacular views of the river. 

Timings: 8am–4.50pm every day
Photography: Generally allowed; restricted in certain areas within the church.

Days after Kolkata and the rest of Bengal celebrates Christmas with customary joy and cheer, the Armenian Church of St. John, the Baptist, commemorates Armenian Christmas on January 6. The Sunday after that, the handful of Armenians who remain in Kolkata, along with students of the Armenian College, make an annual pilgrimage to the Chinsurah church. The church in the erstwhile Dutch settlement was completed in 1697 and dedicated to St. John the Baptist. The clock tower was added in 1822. The church compound includes a graveyard, with the oldest grave dating back to 27 November 1697.

Timings: The church is generally closed to the public.

The former French colony has its share of colonial churches. Near the Strand (riverfront) stands the Sacred Heart Church, which dates back to 1884. The structure with a pair of short towers has beautiful stained glass windows. The walls inside display coloured reliefs portraying Jesus carrying the Cross. Long corridors and confession boxes add an air of dignity to the church interiors.

Timings: Open on Sunday for Mass. No fixed time on other days.
Photography: Allowed in the compound but not inside the church. 

A few houses away from the famed Curzon Gate on GT Road stands the small but elegant church built in 1816 by the Church Missionary Society (CMS, London). The land was bought from a local king and Captain Charles Stuart (popularly known as Hindu Stuart) of the East India Company supervised the construction. The brick red church has a tiled roof, a small bell tower, an extended portico and arched windows. Decorative gargoyles (water outlets) are also part of the decorative features of the church. The interiors are simple but elegant and the memorial plaques dating back to the colonial days adorn the walls. 

Timings: Open on Sundays for mass. No fixed time on other days.
Photography: Allowed in the compound but restricted inside the church.

The Armenians were the first Christians to settle in Bengal. Attracted by the riches of Murshidabad, they settled in the adjoining areas and built their own church near Cossimbazar in 1758. As Cossimbazar gradually lost its trading importance, the church fell into neglect. In 2005, however, the Armenian Church Committee of Kolkata undertook a major restoration to return the historic church to its former state of glory. Regular services are not held there — the last sermon was delivered in 1860 — but only during occasional visits by the Armenians of Kolkata. 

Timings: There is no fixed time; the caretaker opens the gate on request. 
Photography: Allowed on request  

St. John’s Church is located in the Sheikhpura area near the Midnapore railway station. The church built in 1851 has a slender spire and a portico supported by four pillars. In front of the church is a graveyard dating back to colonial times. Right in front of the church lie the graves of three district magistrates of Midnapore — James Peddie, Robert Douglas and Bernard Berge — killed by Indian freedom fighters between 1931 and 1935.    

Timings: Sunday masses are usually held in the church. It remains locked the rest of the time.
Photography: No restriction on photography of the church from the outside or in the graveyard. 

The Scottish church is one of the oldest churches in Darjeeling. Built in 1843, it was severely damaged by a lightning strike in 1867. The church was rebuilt in 1873 and the clock tower, a prominent feature on the Darjeeling skyline, added a decade later. The church in the Chowk Bazaar area houses several marble and brass plaques in memory of British officials, planters and soldiers. 

Timings: Open on Sunday for Mass. No fixed time on other days.
Photography: Allowed in the compound but restricted inside the church.

A short distance away from Kurseong railway station and right opposite the West Bengal Tourist Lodge stands this beautiful church with its elegant spire. This Catholic church was constructed in 1905 by missionaries from France and Canada. The interiors are simple and devoid of ornamentation. 

Timings: Open on Sundays for Mass. No fixed time on other days.
Photography: Allowed in the compound but restricted inside the church.